Livia Bianda played out her best game at the New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2016
Academy of Art University’s New York Fashion Week highlighted the talent of eight promising student designers – but it’s clear that Livia Bianda is the one to watch.
Geometric, sporty and modern are the three words that describe the essence of Bianda’s Menswear Spring/Summer 2016 collection. The 23-year-old Indonesian designer managed to transform football uniforms into contemporary sportswear apparel with unconventional silhouettes and detailing. First came the boxy turtleneck top combined with shorts; the eye-catching geometric pattern brings a flashback of Yves Saint Laurent’s signature Mondrian dress from the 1960s.
The designer took out her math toolset to construct shapes in straight lines − conceptualized innovative yet functional designs. The sharp, angular stripes resulted in chic and clean coordinated runway pieces. The thing that stood out the most was the insertion of built-in backpacks and fanny packs as part of the signature look of the collection – showcasing the designer’s skills in fabric manipulation and broad range of technique. From tops to outerwear, all seven looks combined the bonding and mounting of Lycra, mesh, pinstripe wool, cotton and foam-bounded fabrics – adding more volume to the squared silhouette. The concept of geometric design is not new but Bianda’s minimalist structure and mixture of different materials created an original unique look.
“My passion for sportswear while leading a sporting lifestyle has referenced me to look at sportswear as an inspiration. My creative process evolves around a theme, but I always look back at sportswear and use some elements to my designs, either in fabrication or in color ways,” said Bianda in an interview with 303 Magazine. Bold white, black, light blue, olive and astro turf green color block enhanced the sporty look from Bianda’s neat collection. Bianda worked the sports jersey’s color shades into the clash of vertical and horizontal lines and completed the overall looks with sport crew length socks paired with black loafers.
Bianda sent out a compelling collection, for what she is aiming to do: create clothes for modern, young men who keep comfort in mind while pushing the fashion style forward. Bianda presented her audience with a fresh and optimistic perspective on the future of men’s ready-to-wear clothing that encapsulates the endless boundaries of balance between wearability and design. (MT)